Trip

Bharatpur — January 2026

January 2026·Keoladeo National Park, Rajasthan·Three days

A bird-led trip in deep winter. Cold mornings, golden afternoons, and more species in three days than I usually see in three months.

Bharatpur is what happens when a hunting reserve becomes a sanctuary, then a World Heritage Site, then the kind of place that pulls birders from every continent. In January it has the migrants, the resident waders, the shelducks, the kingfishers, and a rotating cast of warblers that you have to work for.

Mornings

The fog at six is so thick you can't see the next tree. By eight it lifts and you realise you've been standing six feet from a pond heron the whole time. Pond herons are exactly the colour of dry bark until they fly, and then the wings flash white. You only really see them once they take off.

The light

Bharatpur has the best afternoon light I've shot in. The water reflects something between gold and copper, and any waterbird at the right angle becomes a frame like this.

What I missed

I went looking for the painted storks at their nesting trees and arrived a week before they really got going. Next year, second week of January, no later.

I also missed the Sarus pair that was apparently on the far edge for two days running. By the time I got there they'd moved on. That's the calculation of bird trips: there is always a thing that just left.

Quick gear note

I shot most of this trip at f/6.3 to f/7.1 — slightly stopped down for the extra depth on the wading shots — and ISO crept up the moment the sun went behind cloud. The Canon's IBIS earned every paisa it cost.